96 Points - Wine & Spirits: Based on the 2018 vintage, this wine includes reserves dating back to 1988. Most of the components come from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger; all grow on chalk. The wine seems to layer that chalk’s seabed heritage into beautiful richness, as it combines different parcels aged in stainless steel, oak barrels or concrete. “It reminds me of architecture,” Tina Vaughn of NYC’s The Simone said. “The smell of a building site—granite, concrete, steel beams. Very Ayn Rand.” Or is it the architecture of ancient fossilized soil, along with a softer impression, one that made me smile at the glory of Champagne.