Nerello Mascalese is as capable of producing robust, tannic wines as it is able to give delicate reds of great elegance. This Nerello from Grottafumata, on the southern face of Etna, falls in the latter camp, with low alcohol and vivid flavors of red fruit. The hints of cracked pepper, smoke, and sour cherry come into perfect focus with a nice chill, making this vibrant red the ideal substitute for a cru Beaujolais when you’re leaning more Italian.  —Anthony Lynch (Kermit Lynch)